GUIDE TO CLARKSDALE & DELTA
Below, you’ll find all you need to know about places to stay and things to see in Clarksdale and the blues-drenched Mississippi Delta. Wherever you spend the night or visit... please “tell ‘em Cat Head sent ya!” (ALSO, need a cab? Pro Taxi - 662-302-0864 - 24/7.)

1.  AREA ACCOMMODATIONS — Where to stay.

CLARKSDALE, MISSISSIPPI - Main "Delta blues" town; home of Delta Blues Museum, Cat Head blues store, Rock & Blues Museum, Red’s Lounge, Ground Zero Blues Club, etc.; centrally located for festivals in region; 90 min. south of Memphis; 90 min. north of Greenville; 60 min. from Oxford, Greenwood or Indianola; 30 min. from Helena, AR.

SPECIALTY HOTELS/B&Bs/CONDOS/APTS (nicest or most interesting places to stay):
* Clark House Residential Inn - restored home of Clarksdale founder John Clark; historic neighborhood, very convenient to downtown; 662-621-1632.
* Delta Cotton Company Apartments above world-famous Ground Zero Blues Club, 662-624-2591, 662-621-9009 (www.groundzerobluesclub.com).
* The Loft at Hopson Plantation (beside Shack-up Inn, near Hwy 61 bypass & 49), 662-902-3866 (www.hopsonplantation.com).
* The Lofts at Five & Dime, (new, luxury condos above old Woolworth bldg — soon to be Yazoo Pass restaurant — downtown; available for rent); click link or call 662-645-8874.
* Bluestown Inn (adjacent to Clarksdale Furniture store, downtown), 662-624-5251.
* The Riverside Hotel - "most blues-historic place to stay in the world," "where Bessie Smith died and Ike Turner lived!" 662-624-9163, 662-627-2694 (www.cathead.biz/riverside.html).
* Shack-up Inn and Cotton Gin Inn (at the old Hopson Plantation, near Hwy 61 bypass & 49), 662-624-8329 (www.shackupinn.com).
* Big Pink Guesthouse -- conveniently located across from Delta Blues Museum; 662-302-7500(www.bigpinkguesthouse.com); also ask about Little Pink.
* Blues Hound Flat apartment, downtown, 901-272-0230 (www.blueshoundflat.com)
* Squeeze Box apt, 2nd & Delta downtown, 732-740-6155 (John); clarksdale@squeezebox.bz (http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p920449)
* Delta Amusement Cafe Apartment (beside restaurant, downtown), 662-627-1467.
* Johnnie Be Goode House (2 bed/1.5 bath, near downtown), 209-304-3815 or 209-217-6040 (moondog@gotsky.com, www.vrbo.com #146407)
GENERAL HOTELS/MOTELS (largest/newest generally starting at top of list):
* Comfort Inn (on State Street a.k.a. 161), 662-627-5122 (www.comfortinn.com)
* Executive Inn (on State Street a.k.a. 161), 662-627-9292
* America's Best Value Inn (350 State Street a.k.a. 161), 662-621-1110
* Budget Inn (on State Street a.k.a. 161), 662-624-6541
* Up-Town Motor Inn (sometimes called the "Uptown" or "Downtowner" by locals, 305 E. 2nd St.), 662-627-3251
* Southern Inn (1904 N. State Street a.k.a. 161), 662-624-6558
* Royal Inn (1910 N. State Street a.k.a. 161), 662-624-4391 (definitely older, very basic place; debatable area; please check it out first)
* (Hick's Motel -- 662-624-9900 -- is NOT... again NOT recommended for tourists/visitors; bad area, poorly maintained, etc.)
CAMPING IN CLARKSDALE:
* Expo Center at State St. & Anderson Blvd. in Clarksdale (near Kroger/Walmart), booked through Tourism/Chamber 1-800-626-3764, 662-627-7337 (www.clarksdaletourism.com), RV camping available w/hook-ups, tent camping, etc. in fenced paved/grassy mix area near Expo Center. (Note: during annual Juke Joint Festival, the fest runs a Saturday night bus shuttle that runs by hotels AND the Expo Center.) More info on Expo camping at: www.visitthedelta.com/lodging/details.aspx?id=2413.
* Quapaw Canoe Company grounds near Sunflower River, downtown: Contact John Ruskey for info, john@island63.com.

NOTE — IF YOU CAN’T FIND CLARKSDALE ROOMS FOR A FESTIVAL: During blues festival time periods, call early and often for rooms!! NOTE THAT THE ISLE OF CAPRI CASINO IN NEARBY LULA, MS, DOES HAVE VACANCIES AND IS RUNNING A BUS SHUTTLE; see below under “Lula, Mississippi” for details and call today!!  If you are having trouble finding a room, the Delma Furniss Mississippi Welcome Center in nearby Lula can help you find/book a hotel room in Clarksdale, Coahoma County or across the river in Helena - 662.337.2305; tell them your preference is to stay in Clarksdale, though, so they check there first. If you cannot find any room vacancies at your preferred accommodation during festival time periods, then book what you can and get on some preferred waiting lists. Since folks book their festival rooms so early, some will inevitably have to cancel as the festival gets closer. If all that doesn’t work, then perhaps consider renting an RV / camper in Memphis (maybe try?: Cruise America... Midsouth Motor Coach... Get RV.com... or RV Rentals of America); then, stay at Expo Center (camping facilities) in Clarksdale (where our Blues Bus shuttle will run on Sat night of Juke Joint Festival, by the way). Finally, if you still can’t figure out where/how to stay during a fest... Call Cat Head blues store (662-624-5992) or Tourism/Chamber of Commerce (662-627-7337) - We may have heard of additional options.

* Delta Music Experience (Amanda Gresham) - Amanda’s DME has special hotel accommodations held for a week of special Juke Joint Festival events in 2012. Please go to www.amandagresham.com or email deltamusicexp@aol.com for more information.

* Delma Furniss Mississippi Welcome Center in Lula will help you find/book a hotel room in Coahoma County or across the river in Helena - 662.337.2305.

Cleveland, MS - Home of Delta State U.; near Dockery Farms; 40 min. south of Clarksdale.
* Days Inn - 662-846-5404
* Colonial Inn - 662-843-3641
* Comfort Inn - 662-843-4060
* Hampton Inn - 662-846-1525
* Holiday Inn Express - 662-843-9300
* Western Motel - 662-843-6908
* Delta Inn - 662-846-1873
* Molly's B&B - 662-843-9913
* The Conner House - 662-843-0756
* Cleveland Inn - 662-846-1411

Rosedale, MS - Small, historic river town (home of White Front Cafe); 40 min. south of Clarksdale.
* Great River Road State Park (camping/hiking/river access)

Batesville, MS - Strip malls, restaurants, hotels; near Hwy 55; 45-50 min. from Clarksdale.
* Comfort Inn 601-563-1188
* Days Inn 601-563-4999
* Ramada Limited 601-563-4528
* Amerihost Inn 601-563-6592
* Hampton Inn 601-578-5555
* Skyline Motel 601-563-7671

Greenwood, MS - Close to three Robert Johnson grave markers; 50-60 min from Clarksdale.
* Alluvian Hotel (luxury hotel), 662-453-2114
* Tallahatchie Flats (renovated shacks), 662-453-1854

Oxford, MS - Home of U of Miss ("Ole Miss") and Living Blues 'Blues Archive'; 60 min. from Clarksdale.
* University of Mississippi Hotel Network, http://olemiss.universityhotelnetwork.com/

Helena/West Helena, Arkansas (hotels/motels) - Home of Delta Cultural Center; 30-35 min. from Clarksdale.
* Super 7 Motel (1007 MLK Dr., right across Miss-Ark bridge from Lula, Ms), 800-753-9701
* Best Western Inn (1053 W Hwy 49), 870-572-2592
* Motel 6 West Helena (1207 US 49 & Sharon St.), 870-572-7915
* Downtown Inn 870-338-9125
* Delta Inn 870-572-7915
* Harbor Inn 870-572-2597
* Holiday Star 870-572-3717
* Sands 870-572-6774

Helena, Arkansas (historic bed & breakfasts) - Home of Delta Cultural Center; 30-35 min. from Clarksdale.
* Edwardian Inn, 870-338-9155
* Magnolia Hills, 870-338-6874
* Foxglove Bed & Breakfast, 870-338-9391
* Stone Ridge Inns I, 870 338-9390 or 870 338-9044
* Stone Ridge Inns II, 870 338-9390 or 870 338-9044
* Harvest House Bed & Breakfast Brinkley, AR, 870-734-1281
 
Helena's campgrounds & R.V. Parks - Click here for King Biscuit camping info.
* Riverpark Campground/RV Park located 2 blocks from King Biscuit festival at the Mississippi River Park. 870 338-9047

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2.  GUIDE TO CLARKSDALE — Where to play.

Abe's Bar-B-Q restaurant - BBQ at the 61/49 crossroads. 616-1/2 N State St., (662) 624-9947.

(The) Bank Building - A large, downtown event venue for receptions, concerts, meetings, etc., located at the corner of E. 2nd St. & Yazoo Ave. Email Bubba O’Keefe at kokpublications@gmail.com.

(The) Big Pink Guest House/Honey Hill House - In addition to overnight accommodations, The Big Pink is a great setting for private parties, weddings, receptions and meetings. Side patio facing the front of the Blues Museum’s stage for private viewing of festivals and music events being held on the stage. For info/reservations call Pal Foster (662) 313-0321 or Tommy Polk (662) 313-0028. In the old pink brick building on John Lee Hooker Lane near the Museum. ALSO, the same folks operate the Honey Hill House out on Hwy. 161 (in woods across from Hicks BBQ). -- UNDER NEW OWNERSHIP FOR 2012... Accepting Rentals... more web info to come, but email new owner Royse at royse@usa.com

Big Jim's BBQ - A great little carryout BBQ shack out on State St. (Hwy. 61 in town) in a parking lot across from the Ranchero Restaurant... and across Sunflower River on Riverside. Hours vary. Usually open later in the week or at lunch.

Birdsong Tours - Custom local tours to fit your needs.... Blues/historical/agricultural. Contact Robert Birdsong at mississippimojo@yahoo.com, 662-645-6061 or 662-624-6051 ... and tell him Cat Head sent ya.

Blues Hound Flat - A cool, new place to stay in Clarksdale. A hip flat (apartment) located within easy walking distance of downtown blues clubs, museums and stores. Rental info, photos and rates at www.blueshoundflat.com.

Bluesberry Cafe - Florida-transplants Art and Carol offer live blues music most Monday and Wednesday nights -- along with Italian food specialties. Call for more info. 235 Yazoo Ave. (662) 627-7008.

Bluestown Music - Cool, independently-owned vintage guitar and instrument store that features a small recording studio in back. Mon.-Fri., Noon-5pm. Sat., 10am-5pm. 317 Delta Ave. (662) 645-1816.

Cab service - See below under “Pro Taxi.”

CAT HEAD DELTA BLUES & FOLK ART - Called "1 of 17 Coolest Record Stores in America" (Paste magazine), "Keeping the Blues Alive Award" recipient (retail category) and "Blues Music Award" winner. Specializing in great blues CDs, DVDs, books, magazines, T-shirts and much much more. Plus, affordable blues and folk art. "Sounds Around Town" chalkboard with weekly music and event updates - just call, drop by or visit our web page. "Live" music and book signings in store occasionally... including free "Cat Head's Mini Blues Fests" out in the street after Sunflower River, King Biscuit and Juke Joint Blues Festivals (please tip the musicians!). Email Roger to be added to regular Delta Update e-list. Open Mon.-Sat., 10am-5pm; Sun. by chance/appointment. 252 Delta Ave. Phone/fax (662) 624-5992, roger@cathead.biz, www.cathead.biz

CAT HEAD PRESENTS... record label - Pick up Big George Brock's Club Caravan, Round Two or Live At Seventy Five CDs as well as his Hard Times DVD ... and step back in time ... to the days of the big Muddy/Wolf/Reed/Sonny Boy II sound. Multiple Blues Music Award and Living Blues Award nominations. ALSO, check out : M For Mississippi: A Road Trip through the Birthplace of the Blues (a joint production of Cat Head Presents and Broke & Hungry Records) -- click image above to view trailers or purchase..

MORE CAT HEAD STUFF... Down In The Delta magazine column and XM Satellite Radio "Bluesville" update - Check out Cat Head's regular column in Blues Revue Magazine and weekly on-air call-in with XM Radio's Bill Wax at 4pm CST on most Thursdays.

Clarksdale Bank Building (formerly Clarksdale Press Register) - Big, beautiful, historic building available for parties, receptions and special events. Large main room, smaller room and patio area. Kitchen, restrooms, etc. Call Bubba O'Keefe today at 662-645-8874 for more information.

Clarksdale Film Festival - The last weekend in January (Thurs-Sun)! Over two dozen films and more celebrating our region's music, culture and people... at Delta Cinema and other great Clarksdale venues. Plus, many filmmaker introductions/Q&As, etc. Includes movie history bus tours (Sat) and related live blues every night. Organized by same folks who put on the annual Juke Joint Festival. Details at web site (click fest name).

Clarksdale.com - Find current Clarksdale news, information and links. Lots of fest ads... Thanks Larry. See for yourself!

ClarksdaleInfo.com - Virtual clearinghouse of Clarksdale news, information and links. Good info... Thanks Keith. Check it out!

ClarksdaleNow.org - The official web site of Clarksdale Revitalization and its downtown Clarksdale Visitor Station. Thanks Mac & co.

ClarksdaleTourism.com - It's the web site of Clarksdale & Coahoma County Tourism (located on Hwy 49). Thanks Kappi.

Clarksdale Visitor's Station - At corner of Third and Issaquena, downtown, it is the location of the former Clarksdale Greyhound Bus Station. It is now restored an operating as a visitor's station and the home of Clarksdale Revitalization. Contact Mac Crank for more info at macrank@cableone.net.

Clark House Residential Inn (formerly Belle Clark B&B) - Spend the night in the home of the founder of Clarkdale -- John Clark. 211 Clark Street. 662-621-1632. Email: host@clarkhouse.info

Club 2000 - Club 2000 is a tiny juke joint on Issaquena, near the New Roxy. No sign but a banner. Music most Sunday nights with Mr. Tater the Music Maker... plus at blues festival times.

Cotton Gin Inn/Shack-up Inn - Rustic former plantation with half a dozen sharecropper shacks... plus an old Cotton Gin full of rooms... sometimes-music venue, etc. Updated with A.C., heat, showers, microwaves, etc. A favorite of regular folks, musicians and movie stars alike! Make reservations on line or call. Off of Old Hwy. 49, 662-624-8329 (Shackup/Cotton Gin Inn).

"Crossroads" Monument - A favorite tourist stop. Hwy. 61 at 49 in Clarksdale. (There's an older crossing of Old Hwy. 61 & 49 at the intersection of East Tallahatchie and Martin Luther King Drive in the old New World District near downtown.)

Cutrer Cultural Arts Center - Large, historic mansion available for weddings, parties, workshops, conferences and other engagements. 109 Clark St., 662-627-3016.

Delta Amusement Cafe - The biggest, greasiest breakfest in town (that's a compliment!) plus sturdy plate lunches. The proprietor is a real character but a great guy just the same. During festival events in town, he usually has "live" blues. 348 Delta Ave. (662) 627-1467.

Delta Blues Room - The former owner of Blues Station along with a couple friends opened this spacious and comfortable blues venue in late July 2004. Open most evenings with excellent food, regular DJ events and occasional "live" blues. 662-624-9200; email deltablue545@bellsouth.net. 220 Sunflower Ave.

Delta Cotton Company Apartments above Ground Zero Blues Club (VERY COOL!) available for daily/weekly/monthly rental starting at $85/night; call Ashley at 662-645-9366 for apartment info -- and tell her that Cat Head sent ya. Club info: 0 Blues Alley, (662) 621-9009, www.groundzerobluesclub.com lists coming acts.

Delta Blues Museum - Muddy Waters' cabin, signed guitars, blues photos and gift shop. A must-see! Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm, Mar.-Sept.; Mon.-Fri., 10am-5pm, Oct.-Feb.). 662-627-6820. 1 Blues Alley, www.deltabluesmuseum.org

Delta Jubilee - The Chamber of Commerce puts this on in early June each year. Expect carnival rides, visiting food vendors and rock (w/occasional blues or country) music. Details at www.clarksdaletourism.com

(The) Den - The Den is a family-friendly, smoke/alcohol-free music venue that runs occasionally. 220 Yazoo Ave., Clarksdale, MS (901-605-8662) -- THE DEN IS NOW FOR SALE (Middleton Realty).

(The) Depot Blues Club - Opened in June '07 in the historic Clarksdale Station (train depot), downtown, The Depot Blues Club offers lunch (Mon-Fri) plus some dinner and occasional breakfast. They book "live" music -- mostly blues -- on some weekends. Local musician "Mr. Tater" hosts weekly blues jam on most Thursday nights. (662) 624-8132. 200 Blues Alley.

Early Wright's gravesite - Resting place of one of the South's most famous DJ's. Heavenly Rest Cemetery, Lyon, MS, just north of Clarksdale on hwy. 61. (Unfortunately, the grave lacks headstone at present.)

(former) Greyhound Bus Station - Restored and currently operating as a visitor's station at the corner of 3rd and Issaquena. Email Mac Crank at macrank@cableone.net for more info.

Ground Zero Blues Club - Co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman. Specializing in Mississippi blues acts: Wednesdays (8pm-11pm), Thursdays (7pm till), Fridays and Saturdays (9pm-1am) and Sundays (brunch w/music on festival weekends only). Also, fully furnished Delta Cotton Co. Apartments rooms available for daily/weekly/monthly rental starting at $85/night; call Ashley at 662-645-9366 for apartment info -- and tell her that Cat Head sent ya. Club info: 0 Blues Alley, (662) 621-9009, www.groundzerobluesclub.com lists coming acts.

Ground Zero Blues Club Music - DVD/CD label started by Gary and Carol Vincent (Vincent Productions) to record special events at Ground Zero Blues Club (above). Production facilities and recording studio for label are house in old Coahoma Opportunities building on Issaquena in downtown Clarksdale.

Hambone Festival - Started in October 2007 by musician/artist Stan Street (see below). Held annually on Halloween weekend.

Hambone Gallery - Art gallery owned and operated by Stan and Dixie Street -- a couple wonderful Clarksdale transplants from Florida. Stan is an excellent painter (mostly blues subjects in folk art style -- Cat Head carries his work, too!) and blues/roots musician. Gallery features live music (usually blues) every Tuesday evening. 111 East Second.

Henry "Son" Sims grave site - Buried in unmarked grave at Bell(e) Grove Cemetary. (Slated for eventual headstone courtesy Mr. Zion Fund.)

"Here's Clarksdale" magazine - FREE monthly print (and on-line) publication... "The monthly magazine of Clarksdale Culture." It provides both past and present histories of the people and places that make Clarksdale, Mississippi so special. Click on the link to enjoy from afar, or pick up a free copy at Cat Head when you're in town.

Hick's BBQ - Great food, including wonderful BBQ and Delta-style hot tamales. Drive through window for lunch and dinner to go. Across from the Econolodge on State St. (Hwy. 161 in town).

Hopson Plantation/Commissary/THE LOFT - Rustic old plantation commissary w/occasional music events, including the annual "Pinetop Perkins Homecoming" each October. ALSO, stay at... THE LOFT at Hopson wonderful overnight accommodations that are very cool. See it for yourself in a slide show on their www.hopsonplantation.com web site or call 662-902-3866 to book it for a night, a week or whatever. 8141 Old Hwy. 49, 624-5756 (Hopson Commissary/Loft only).

Hotels in Clarksdale & vicinity - See our complete "Accommodations" listing below. Note that festival weekends book up WAY EARLY(!!), so book rooms as far in advance as possible. If you can't find a room for a fest week, reserve the best/closest room you CAN find, and then get on waiting lists for Comfort Inn, Executive Inn, etc. Folks book so far out for festivals that rooms often open up as the event draws near. If you need recommendations for places to stay, please email roger@cathead.biz or call the Cat Head store at 662-624-4992. (If you need someone to find/reserve a room for you, please contact the Delma Furniss Mississippi Welcome Center in nearby Lula, MS.)

Ike Turner's home - Where the Father of Rock 'n Roll grew up. 304 Washington St.

Isle of Capri Entertainment Resort in Lula, MS. - "Visit our tropical paradise with three great restaurants, two hotels, a great showroom meeting rooms and two great casinos with 24 hour live action. Call 1-800-789-5825 for more information." But first... SEE NOTES BELOW UNDER "ACCOMMODATIONS" for special Juke Joint Festival information!

Jacqueline's Blues Bar - Former club named after local, female blues-rock guitar prodigy Jacqueline Gooch. Currently for sale. 990 MLK Dr. (4th St.).

Jimbo Mathus' Delta Recording Studio and KnockDown South Records - Studio run by former Squirrel Nut Zippers founder and current Knockdown Society leader (also on the last two Buddy Guy CDs) James "Jimbo" Mathus. Jimbo is from Corinth, Mississippi originally and has family here. The studio opened in August 2003, and he recorded folks like Big George Brock & the Houserockers, Elvis Costello, Sam Carr, Floyd Lee, Cedric Burnside, K.M. Williams, Mr. Tater, etc. Located on 200 block of Yazoo, downtown. -- MOVED TO COMO, MISSISSIPPI... SEPT. 1, 2006.

Juke Joint Fesival & Related Events - Awesome, low-cost annual event to be held Thurs night thru Sun night, April 14-17 in 2011 (Fest on Sat. w/related events that Thurs., Fri. & Sun.) that combines a real-deal blues festival with a traditional small town fair. Fun, family events like pig races, a petting zoo and history bus tours of Clarksdale ... plus great "live" real-deal blues music, tasty Delta food and good ole Southern hospitality during the day. Authentic "lock up your daughters" Delta blues played in old time juke joints at night. For the nighttime portion, we book local/regional acts into 15+ great blues clubs/jukes w/15+ acts! Over 50 blues acts perform over the weekend. Then, we rent a couple buses and drivers to take you around to them and back to your hotel... All for just the price of a $10 wristband. Pretty sweet. Book your rooms early for this one. Details and photos from last year on the web site. (662) 624-5992 or (662) 624-4006 for info. ALSO, there will be plenty "live" blues in the clubs, etc. on that Friday night and another free CAT HEAD'S MINI BLUES FEST out front of Cat Head on that Sunday (April 17, 2011).

(The) Junction R&B Club - Very nice juke joint. Currently closed. Too bad. Cool place and super owner. It's 10 minutes North of Clarksdale, MS (Located on Hwy. 61N, just 15 mins. North of C'dale's 61/49 "crossroads" sculpture. It's a nice metal building with a large parking lot. Look for the unrelated double billboard beside it.)

Kathryn's on Moon Lake - So, o.k. it's not exactly IN Clarksdale, but it is nearby at Moon Lake -- a scenic and historic location. Steaks and seafood are the specialties of the house. 5770 Moon Lake Rd. 662-337-2962.

THE LOFT at Hopson Plantation - THE LOFT at Hopson... new overnight accommodations that are very cool. See it for yourself in a slide show on their www.hopsonplantation.com web site or call 662-902-3866 to book it for a night, a week or whatever. 8141 Old Hwy. 49, 624-5756 (Hopson Commissary/Loft only).

The Lofts At The Five & Dime - Now available for rent... Nearly 1,000 sq. ft. luxury condominums located conveniently downtown in Clarksdale -- above the old Woolworth's building. Rooms include master suite w/king bed, full kitchen/living room w/queen sleep sofa and more. Six units total. Yazoo Ave & E. 2nd St. Click web link above for details or reservations, or call Bubba O'Keefe at 662-645-8874. Yazoo Pass restaurant is located below the Lofts and open 6 days a week.

Mac's Lounge - Robert Mugge's 1991 blues documentary "Deep Blues" featured Big Jack Johnson performing here when it was called the Pastime Lounge. Mac's does NOT feature "live" blues, however. 426 Desoto Ave.

Madidi - The fine restaurant co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman and attorney Bill Luckett. High end but very nice. Great food. Upscale atmosphere. Reservations recommended. Wednesday nights feature live music (usually blues). Mr. Freeman eats there regularly. 164 Delta Ave. (662) 627-7770.

Margaret's Blue Diamond - Once a favorite juke of the locals but closed by an ice storm in the 1990s, the building has recently reopened as CW's but with no sign out front. There's rarely "live" blues any more (except on the occasional Sunday night) but some on the juke box. The video "Juke Joint Saturday Night" was filmed here. By the railroad tracks, one block over from Turner's Grill.

Miss Del's General Store - They may look a touch old fashioned, but they feature the best of everything... from feed, seed and garden products to jewelry, bath products, gifts, gourmet foods, antiques, fine chocolates and pecans. (Plus, lattes and cappuccinos!) Shop Mon.-Sat. or on-line 24/7. 662-624-2381. 145 Delta Avenue in historic downtown Clarksdale.

Messenger's - Perhaps the oldest, continously running business in Clarksdale, Messengers is a tight ship run by Mr. George Messenger. It's part pool hall and domino den... and part café and juke joint. Drop in for a beer and a sandwich and watch for occasional blues shows. 2005 was a big year for the venue. It was featured in an award-winning documentary, a feature article in the Clarion-Ledger and one of the hottest spots in town during the Juke Joint Festival (when Jimbo Mathus and the boys tore up the place!). On MLK Drive (4th St.) between Sunflower and Yazoo.

Mississippi Blues Trail - Over 150 wonderful Blues Trail markers throughout Mississippi -- with several markers in Clarksdale and Coahoma County for Ike Turner, Sam Cooke, WROX Radio, Muddy Waters, Riverside Hotel, Livin' In Lula....! Not to be missed. Web site also has live music calendar.

Muddy's Mound - Former site of Muddy Water's famous cabin on Stovall Plantation. A marker on the site tells the story and includes this quote from Eric Clapton, "Muddy Waters' music changed my life, and whether you know it or not, and like it or not, it probably changed yours, too." ALSO, there is now a State Blues Trail Marker at the Mound. The cotton fields still thrive behind the site.

New Roxy theater - Historic live performance/movie theater in the New World District of Clarksdale (Issaquena Ave.). The New Roxy is now an AWESOME open roof, walled amphitheater that features live music during festival weekends and special events. Check it out if you can!

Oxbow Restaurant - Wonderful, Delta-casual-meets-tasty-gourmet restaurant around the corner from Cat Head store on Third St., downtown. Opened in March 2011 by husband and wife team of Hayden & Erica Hall -- two young Clarksdalians who spent time away in New Orleans, D.C., etc... and then decided to return to join our downtown’s revitalization. Daily specials and a menu that includes tuna tacos plus fresh fruit sides and more in an artistic, recycled setting. Open Mon-Fri for lunch plus Mondays for dinner. 115 Third St., 662-627-6781.

Pro Taxi - New (2012) taxi service -- 24/7. Mr. Curtis Hawkins and his wife run it. 662-302-0864.

Quapaw Canoe Company - Join artist/musician/adventurer John "Riverman" Ruskey on a canoe trip on the mighty Mississippi! Simply amazing. As short or long as you care to make the trip. Affordable and memorable. 291 Sunflower Avenue, 662.627.4070. john@island63.com

Ramon's Restaurant - A hidden little gem (a couple blocks from where the Cat Head's live). Simple but excellent fare in an atmosphere straight out of the 1970s. Fried seafood, chicken livers, crawfish in season. Look for a mention in Gourmet magazine (late summer 2005). 535 Oakhurst St. (662) 624-9230.

Ranchero Restaurant - A popular family institution here in town. Folks call it "The Ranch." The menu includes BBQ, fried seafood and salad bar. 1907 State St. (662) 624-9768

Red's Lounge - Excellent local juke joint. Sure it looks closed and/or scary, but it is actually just a big ole wonderful house party. Open some weekday nights and all weekends with "live" blues some weekends. Special events during festival time. If you come to Clarksdale, you simply MUST visit Big Red at his killer juke! Regulars include T-Model Ford, Robert Belfour, Big T, Lightnin' Malcolm, Wesley Jefferson and Big Jack Johnson. 395 Sunflower Ave. (Corner of MLK Dr./4th St. and Sunflower.) Contact Cat Head for more info.

Rest Haven - A Lebanese-owned Clarksdale institution, the Rest Haven is kind of like dinner that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The difference is that you are offered a mix of Lebanese, Italian and downhome Delta items on the menu. Nice folks. 419 State St. (662) 624-8601

Roger Stolle - See "Stolle, Roger" directly below.

Riverside Hotel - Site of African-American hospital where Bessie Smith died in 1937. Ike Turner, Robert Nighthawk, Sonny Boy II, Pop Staples, John Lee Hooker and John F. Kennedy, Jr. all stayed or lived here after it became a hotel/boardinghouse. (There used to be a late-night club called "The Subway" in the basement, too!) Founded on Oct. 11, 1944 and currently run by the always accommodating Frank "Rat" Ratliff. Rat's been spending a lot of time renovating some adjacent structures, lately... So look for more accommodations to be available soon. 615 Sunflower Ave., (662) 624-9163. ALSO, there is now a State Blues Trail Marker at the Riverside.

Rust Restaurant - Fine dining, Delta style... on the 200 block of Delta Avenue. Features live music (often blues) on Thursday nights!

(Theo's) Rock 'N Roll & Blues Heritage Museum - Theo and his wife moved here from the Netherlands (via Memphis), and they've opened a very cool museum full of rare rock and blues memorabilia. A must-see on 2nd Street downtown. Open most Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays plus during festivals and by appointment. 113 E. Second St. 901-605-8662.

Sam Cooke's home - Soul music's legendary Sam Cooke was born in Clarksdale in 1931. Corner of 7th St. and Illinois Ave.

Sarah's Kitchen - Once located at 208 Sunflower Ave., downton, and later moved to 278 Sunflower Ave., Sarah's Kitchen was an institution for visiting blues fans and locals alike. Founded and run by the late "Miss Sarah" Moore, the juke joint kitchen was taken over by her daughter after her passing in late 2009. The restaurant is slated to reopen at the corner of Sunflower and Third Street in late summer 2010 inside a new family owned venue. The "Miss Sarah Award" was founded in 2010 in honor of this special lady and her world-famous juke; it is awarded each April during the Juke Joint Festival.

Shack-up Inn/Cotton Gin Inn - Rustic former plantation with half a dozen sharecropper shacks... plus an old Cotton Gin full of rooms... sometimes-music venue, etc. Updated with A.C., heat, showers, microwaves, etc. A favorite of regular folks, musicians and movie stars alike! Make reservations on line or call. Off of Old Hwy. 49, 662-624-8329 (Shackup/Cotton Gin Inn).

Smitty's Red Top Lounge - Photos of this legendary juke were featured on both a Jelly Roll King's LP and a Super Chikan CD since both used to play here. Closed but for sale. Move to C'dale and open a cool juke joint. 377 Yazoo Ave.

Stackhouse Record Mart/Rooster Blues - CLOSED.... Former record store and site of the Rooster Blues recording studio back in the 1990s. (It's the old Cream Boat building.) 232 Sunflower Ave.

Stolle, Roger - Founder/owner of Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art store and Cat Head Presents recording label in Clarksdale. Co-founder/organizer of Juke Joint Festival and Clarksdale Film Festival. Co-founder of Three Forks Music label group. Also, Blues Revue magazine columnist, Hidden History of Mississippi Blues book author, XM/Sirius Bluesville radio correspondant, former WROX blues radio deejay, Clarksdale Downtown Development Association board member, Blues Foundation member, Keeping the Blues Alive Award and Blues Music Award recipient, blues PR/Marketing specialist, film/record producer, blues tour guide, international blues bookings, former Ground Zero Blues Club and Sunflower River Blues Fest music coordinator, etc.

Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival - FREE annual event that will celebrate 25 years in 2012. Includes many of our great local blues and gospel bands plus some Mississippi-connected headliners on a couple stages. 2012 features headliners Mississippi-born bluesman Charlie Musselwhite and British rock legend (and blues fan) Robert Plant! See web site for details. As a bonus, all of the area clubs and juke joints run that weekend, and Cat Head coordinates a big, free CAT HEAD'S MINI BLUES FEST all day on that Sunday with tents, chairs and half a dozen acts out front of the store.

Taxi service - See above under “Pro Taxi.”

(Mississippi Delta) Tennessee Williams Festival - Annual event that celebrates Clarksdale's literary history with seminars, porch plays and more. Each October. Contact the Chamber of Commerce below for info.

Tourism Commission/Chamber of Commerce - Drop by the Tourism/Chamber offices for information on Clarksdale. 1540 Desoto Ave. (which is also Hwy. 49). www.clarksdaletourism.com (662) 627-7337.

Uncle Henry's Place & Inn - So, o.k. it's not exactly IN Clarksdale, but it is nearby at Moon Lake (and I really dig the place). Creole chef George Wright cooks up spicy miracles in the kitchen from Wednesday to Sunday night. It's also a basic B&B... with a real history as a casino, etc. where guys like Tennessee Williams hung out. 5860 Moon Lake Rd. (662) 337-2757.

Vincent Productions - See "Ground Zero Blues Club Music" above.

VisitMississippi.org - The official Mississippi state tourism web site...

VisitTheDelta.com - Mississippi Delta tourism web site with lots 'o good info.

Wade Walton's Barbershop - Clarksdale's famous blues barber not only cut the hair of Ike Turner, Sonny Boy Williamson II and others, he also recorded blues for both local and international labels. His small white building at 317 Issaquena Ave. is still decorated with his name. (Note: His original shop was at 304 4th Street.)

Wade Walton's gravesite - McLaurin Gardens cemetery, Lyon, MS, just north of Clarksdale on hwy. 61. Nice headstone.

W.C. Handy home marker - The so-called "Father of the Blues" lived here in the early 1900s when he first heard the blues in nearby Tutwiler. On Issaquena, near Wade Walton's barbershop.

We Juke Up In Here - The follow-up film to the award-winning blues documentary M For Mississippi. M for Mississippi producers Roger Stolle and Jeff Konkel return (along with Damien Blaylock, Bill Abel and Lou Bopp) for an off-the-hook foray into the Delta's quasi-legal juke joint culture -- a way of life that is on the edge of a 21st Century abyss and looking down. Order today at www.wejukeupinhere.com and see video trailer. Premiere at Delta Cinemas in Clarksdale during Juke Joint Festival, April 2012.

W.R.O.X. museum (a.k.a. Clarkdale History & Cultural Museum)- Open by appointment... This was the site of the W.R.O.X. blues radio station from around 1946 to 1953, according to the building's current owner, Bubba O'Keefe. Early Wright, Ike Turner and Robert Nighthawk all had shows here, plus Elvis, Sam Cooke and Sonny Boy Williamson II were all on the air there at some point in time. Open festival weekends or by appointment. 257 Delta Ave. Admission is $5/per year for adults. Children 13 & under free. Special group/tour rates. Contact Bubba O’Keefe 662 645 8874.

Yazoo Pass - Large, recently-opened coffee shop and restaurant in former Woolworth location (under Lofts at Five & Dime), featuring Clarksdale first “real” salad bar. Opened with 7am-9pm hours, Mon-Sat (call first). 207 Yazoo Ave., 662-627-8686, www.yazoopass.com.

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3.  LIVE BLUES SHOWS IN THE DELTA — Click here!

Live MUSIC CALENDAR includes festivals, blues clubs, juke joints, restaurants, museums, record stores and more. Just click and plan for a jukin’ great time!

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4.  MISSISSIPPI BLUES ROAD TRIP — Visitor’s guide.

What follows is a very basic list of sites and sounds, web sites and publications – the basics of how and where to start your voyage. Plan ahead, but don’t wait. Mississippi, and the Delta specifically, is not Disneyland or corporate America. There are no guarantees of its blues future. Living dinosaurs eventually die, and sagging juke joint roofs eventually cave in. Pick a week or weekend (since most live blues is on Friday and Saturday nights), catch a plane or car, and make your own history in Mississippi.

Clarksdale

-Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art – blues CDs, DVDs, books, magazines, apparel, artwork and more; chalkboard lists local happenings (www.cathead.biz).

-Delta Blues Museum – Delta’s first blues museum, founded in 1979; remnants of Muddy Waters childhood home and more (www.deltabluesmuseum.org).

-Rock & Blues Museum – overflowing with vintage blues and rock memorabilia; run by enthusiastic Dutch record collector (www.blues2rock.com).

-Clarksdale Visitor’s Station – housed in historic, downtown Greyhound Bus Station; run by Clarksdale Revitalization, Inc. (www.clarksdalenow.org).

-Clarksdale & Coahoma County Tourism –local tourism office provides visitor information; rents camping facility at Expo Center (www.visitclarksdale.com).

-The Crossroads – a ceremonial marker at the former intersections of highways 61 and 49 in honor of the Robert Johnson “deal at the crossroads” mythology.

-Ground Zero Blues Club –co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman with live blues Wednesday to Saturday nights (www.groundzerobluesclub.com).

-Red’s Lounge – arguably the greatest of the surviving, live music juke joint in the Delta; like stepping back in time; events listed at www.cathead.biz.

-Blues Trail Markers – Clarksdale and Coahoma County are home to over half a dozen markers honoring legends like Son House, Ike Turner and Muddy Waters.

-Walk of Fame – a handful of sidewalk plaques spread around downtown honor Clarksdale’s music, literary, civil rights and sports legends.

-Juke Joint Festival & Related Events –half blues festival, half small-town fair; outdoor by day, in jukes at night; held in mid-April (www.jukejointfestival.com).

-Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival – town’s oldest blues festival features mainly Mississippi-connected acts in early August (www.sunflowerfest.org).

-Other local festivals include – Clarksdale Film Festival (last weekend in January), Clarksdale Caravan Music Festival (Saturday following Blues Music Awards in Memphis), Hambone Festival (Saturday of Halloween weekend) and three Cat Head Mini Blues Fests per year (April, August, October).

-Other points of interest – WROX Museum and Aaron Cotton Company Museum (both open by appointment); Hambone Gallery, Bluesberry Café, Madidi, Rust, Delta Amusement Café, Messenger’s, Club 2000, Juke Joint Chapel and New Roxy (all with occasional live blues); Muddy Waters home site at Stovall Farm; Hopson Commissary and the Shackup Inn.

Tutwiler

-W.C. Handy site – former location of train station where Handy first heard the blues, circa 1903; a wall mural and two historical markers memorialize the spot.

-Sonny Boy Williamson II gravesite – final resting place of blues harmonica great.

Greenwood

-Robert Johnson gravesite #1 – larger obelisk gravestone with generous writing and photo placed at Mount Zion Missionary Baptist Church by Columbia Records and Mt. Zion Memorial Fund, circa 1990; outside Greenwood near Morgan City.

-Robert Johnson gravesite #2 – small, flat gravestone placed at Payne Chapel Missionary Baptist Church cemetery in 1991; outside Greenwood near Quito.

-Robert Johnson gravesite #3 – two-sided gravestone includes an alleged Johnson handwriting sample; placed at Little Zion Missionary Baptist Church cemetery in 2002; generally accepted as burial site; near Greenwood (www.msbluestrail.org).

-Blues Trail markers – Robert Johnson and Baptist Town.

-Festival events – past events have included the River to Rails Festival, Cotton Capitol Blues Festival and Mississippi Crossroads Festival (www.gcvb.com).

-Other points of interest – Alluvian Hotel and Tallahatchie Flats; Crystal Grill and Lusco’s Restaurant; Viking Range Corporation.

Indianola

-B.B. King Museum – hi-tech museum dedicated to blues history and B.B. King’s life; includes theater, artifacts and interactive displays (www.bbkingmuseum.org).

-Club Ebony – nearly 70-year-old blues, jazz and R&B club; offers music many Sunday nights; B.B. King performs yearly during his annual homecoming.

-308 Blues Club – blues on most weekends (www.308bluesclubandcafe.com).

-Other points of interest – The Blue Biscuit (www.thebluebiscuit.com) and Gin Mill Mall (both with occasional live blues); The Crown Restaurant.

Leland

-Highway 61 Blues Museum – wonderfully low-tech and local; often bluesman Pat Thomas drops by to play for tourist tips (www.highway61blues.com).

-Highway 61 Blues Festival – every June, the museum puts on a downtown festival specializing in homegrown Delta blues.

-Downtown blues murals – ask at the museum then drive around to see them.

-Blues Trail markers – James “Son” Thomas and Johnny Winter.

-Other points of interest – Jim Henson Museum and Lillo’s Restaurant.

Greenville

-Walnut Street Blues Bar – mostly blues on most weekends.

-Nelson Street – formerly Greenville’s “Beale Street” (blues district) back in the day; worth a daytime drive by, but there is no live blues anymore.

-Blues Trail markers – Nelson Street and Freedom Village.

-Other points of interest – Doe’s Eat Place.

Rosedale

-Blues Trail marker – commemorating Robert Johnson’s often-covered mention of Rosedale in his classic song, “Traveling Riverside Blues.”

-Great River Road State Park – camping and access to the Mississippi River.

-Other points of interest – White Front Café.

Cleveland (area)

-Po Monkey’s Lounge (north, near Merigold) – photogenic, rural juke joint featuring R&B deejay on Thursday evenings.

-Dockery Plantation (east on Highway 8) – once home to blues greats like Charley Patton, Howlin’ Wolf and Pop Staples.

-Blues Trail markers – Dockery Plantation and Chrisman Street.

-Other points of interest – Airport Grocery and Delta State University.

West Point

-Howlin’ Wolf Museum – only museum dedicated to Wolf, born nearby.

-Howlin’ Wolf Festival – Labor Day weekend (Friday) festival dedicated to Howlin’ Wolf and featuring musicians who knew him or were inspired by him.

-Blues Trail markers – Howlin’ Wolf.

Jackson

-930 Blues Café – most reliable local blues and R&B club (www.jesdablues.com).

-Queen of Hearts – local juke joint with weekend music.

-Farish Street – Jackson’s equivalent to “Beale Street” back in the day; current home to F. Jones Corner (blues club).

-Blues Trail markers – home to several markers, including recording labels Malaco and Trumpet as well as musicians Bobby Rush and Ishman Bracey.

-Festival events – Mississippi Blues Marathon (January), Crossroads Film Festival (April), Jubilee Jam (June).

-Other points of interest – Alamo Theater, Old Capitol Museum, Smith Robertson Museum, and Mississippi Department of Archives and History.

Helena, Arkansas (across bridge from Lula, Mississippi)

-Delta Cultural Center – Arkansas Delta museum; includes blues history and Mississippi connections (www.deltaculturalcenter.com).

-King Biscuit Time – “Sunshine” Sonny Payne still broadcasts (www.kffa.com).

-King Biscuit Blues Festival – large, early October event that always includes a strong showing by Mississippi blues acts (www.bluesandheritagefest.com).

-Other points of interest – Mississippi Blues Trail marker, Bubba’s Blues Corner, and the graves of Robert Nighthawk and Frank Frost.

MORE MISSISSIPPI BLUES TRAVEL RESOURCES:

For the most up-to-date information, start with the following web sites:

-Mississippi live blues calendar at www.cathead.biz.

-Mississippi Blues Trail marker maps and information at www.msbluestrail.org.

-Mississippi blues updates (and a nice radio show) at www.highway61radio.com.

-Mississippi blues festival list at www.blueshighway.org.

-Mississippi Tourism official web site at www.visitmississippi.org.

-Blues Festival Guide (national listing) at www.bluesfestivalguide.com.

Prior to your trip you may want to pick up a good, Mississippi blues guidebook:

-Memphis & the Delta Blues Trail by Justin & Melissa Gage (Countryman Press) – most up-to-date guide to Delta blues scene; important since clubs open and close.

-Blues Traveling by Steve Cheseborough (University of Mississippi Press) – the most comprehensive Mississippi blues travel guide; also a nice pocket history.

-Delta Blues Map Kit by Jim O’Neal (self-published) – actually more of a packet than a book and slightly dated, but helpful and fun just the same.

(I also recommend that you pick up a decent Mississippi atlas since your GPS mapping system maybe be a little unreliable in the more rural parts of the state.)

You may also want to learn more about blues history – past and present – by subscribing to one of the three main blues magazines in the U.S.:

-Blues Revue (www.bluesrevue.com).

-Living Blues (www.livingblues.com).

-Big City Blues (www.bigcitybluesmag.com).