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GUIDE TO CLARKSDALE Sponsored in part by:
NOTE: Hotel/B&B information at page bottom. More Clarksdale info on "Links" page. Abe's Bar-B-Q restaurant - BBQ at the 61/49 crossroads. 616-1/2 N State St., (662) 624-9947 (The) Big Pink Guest House/Honey Hill House - In addition to overnight accommodations, The Big Pink is a great setting for private parties, weddings, receptions and meetings. Side patio facing the front of the Blues Museum’s stage for private viewing of festivals and music events being held on the stage. For info/reservations call Pal Foster (662) 313-0321 or Tommy Polk (662) 313-0028. In the old pink brick building on John Lee Hooker Lane near the Museum. ALSO, the same folks operate the Honey Hill House out on Hwy. 161 (in woods across from Hicks BBQ). Big Jim's BBQ - A great little carryout BBQ shack out on State St. (Hwy. 61 in town) in a parking lot across from the Ranchero Restaurant. Hours vary. Usually open later in the week or at lunch. Birdsong Tours - Custom tours to fit your needs.... Blues/historical/agricultural. Call Robert Birdsong at 662-624-6051; birdsong@clarksdale.com ... and tell him Cat Head sent ya. BluesSource.Com - C'dale transplant Gary opened up storefront here in late '07. He offers "50 years of vinyl LPs, 45s, books, comics and more. 115 Third Street. Bluestown Music - Cool, independently-owned vintage guitar and instrument store that features a small recording studio in back. Mon.-Fri., Noon-5pm. Sat., 10am-5pm. 317 Delta Ave. (662) 645-1816. Brick Gallery - Fine Art gallery. Delta Avenue. 662-627-3939. 226 Delta. Thurs.-Fri. 10-5. Sat. 10-2. Or by appt. CAT HEAD DELTA BLUES & FOLK ART - New blues CDs, DVDs, books, T-shirts and much much more. Plus, affordable southern folk, self-taught and outsider artwork. "Sounds Around Town" chalkboard with weekly music and event updates - just call, drop by or visit our web page. "Live" music and book signings in store occasionally... including free "Cat Head's Mini Blues Fests" after Sunflower River, King Biscuit and Juke Joint Blues Festivals. Email Roger to be added to regular Delta Update e-list. Open Mon.-Sat., 10am-5pm; Sun. by chance/appointment. 252 Delta Ave., across from "WROX Museum". Phone/fax (662) 624-5992, roger@cathead.biz, www.cathead.biz CAT HEAD PRESENTS... record label - Pick up Big George Brock's Club Caravan, Round Two or Live At Seventy Five CDs as well as his Hard Times DVD ... and step back in time ... to the days of the big Muddy/Wolf/Reed/Sonny Boy II sound. Multiple Blues Music Award and Living Blues Award nominations. ALSO, coming to DVD and CD in Fall 2008: "M For Mississippi: A Road Trip through the Birthplace of the Blues" (a joint production of Cat Head Presents and Broke & Hungry Records). MORE CAT HEAD STUFF... Down In The Delta magazine column and XM Satellite Radio "Bluesville" update - Check out Cat Head's regular column in Blues Revue Magazine and weekly on-air call-in with XM Radio's Bill Wax at 4pm CST on most Thursdays. Club 2000 - Club 2000 is a tiny juke joint on Issaquena between Buster Moton's building and the New Roxy. No sign but a banner. Music most Sunday nights with Mr. Tater the Music Maker... plus at blues festival times. Cotton Gin Inn/Shack-up Inn - Rustic former plantation with half a dozen sharecropper shacks... plus an old Cotton Gin full of rooms... an area for basic tent/self-contained RV camping... soon-to-be music venue, etc. Updated with A.C., heat, showers, microwaves, etc. A favorite of regular folks, musicians and movie stars alike! Make reservations on line or call. Off of Old Hwy. 49, 662-624-8329 (Shackup/Cotton Gin Inn). "Crossroads" Monument - A favorite tourist stop. Hwy. 61 at 49 in Clarksdale. (There's an older crossing of Old Hwy. 61 & 49 at the intersection of East Tallahatchie and Martin Luther King Drive in the old New World District near downtown.) Cutrer Cultural Arts Center - Large, historic mansion available for weddings, parties, workshops, conferences and other engagements. 109 Clark St., 662-627-3016. Delta Amusement Cafe - The biggest, greasiest breakfest in town (that's a compliment!) plus sturdy plate lunches. The proprietor is a real character but a great guy just the same. During festival events in town, he usually has "live" blues. 348 Delta Ave. (662) 627-1467. Delta Blues Room - The former owner of Blues Station along with a couple friends opened this spacious and comfortable blues venue in late July 2004. Open most evenings with excellent food, regular DJ events and occasional "live" blues. 662-624-9200; email deltablue545@bellsouth.net. 220 Sunflower Ave. Delta Cotton Company Apartments above Ground Zero Blues Club (VERY COOL!) available for daily/weekly/monthly rental starting at $85/night; call Ashley at 662-645-9366 for apartment info -- and tell her that Cat Head sent ya. Club info: 0 Blues Alley, (662) 621-9009, www.groundzerobluesclub.com lists coming acts. (The) Delta Eye - Art gallery/bistro. CLOSED. (Building due to reopen as a store/restaurant in the near future thanks so Clarksdale-born Randall Andrews. Stay tuned.) Delta Blues Museum - Muddy Waters' cabin, signed guitars, blues photos and gift shop. A must-see! Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm, Mar.-Sept.; Mon.-Fri., 10am-5pm, Oct.-Feb.). 662-627-6820. 1 Blues Alley, www.deltabluesmuseum.org Delta Jubilee - The Chamber of Commerce puts this on in early June each year. Expect carnival rides, visiting food vendors and rock (w/occasional blues or country) music. Details at www.clarksdaletourism.com (The) Depot Blues Club - Opened in June '07 in the historic Clarksdale Station (train depot), downtown, The Depot Blues Club offers lunch (Mon-Fri) plus some dinner and occasional breakfast. They book "live" music -- mostly blues -- on some weekends. Local musician "Mr. Tater" hosts weekly blues jam on most Thursday nights. (662) 624-8132. 200 Blues Alley. Early Wright's gravesite - Resting place of one of the South's most famous DJ's. Heavenly Rest Cemetery, Lyon, MS, just north of Clarksdale on hwy. 61. (Unfortunately, the grave lacks headstone at present.) (former) Greyhound Bus Station - Restored and available for tour bus parking and special events/receptions. Corner of 3rd and Issaquena. Contact Delta Blues Museum at 662-627-6820 with questions. NOTE: Now thru mid-January 2008, the Smithsonian exhibit "New Harmonies" is at Bus Station (open Mon-Sat 10-4 for temp exhibit). Ground Zero Blues Club - Co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman. Specializing in Mississippi blues acts: Wednesdays (8pm-11pm), Thursdays (7pm till), Fridays and Saturdays (9pm-1am) and Sundays (brunch w/music on festival weekends only). Also, fully furnished Delta Cotton Co. Apartments rooms available for daily/weekly/monthly rental starting at $85/night; call Ashley at 662-645-9366 for apartment info -- and tell her that Cat Head sent ya. Club info: 0 Blues Alley, (662) 621-9009, www.groundzerobluesclub.com lists coming acts. Ground Zero Blues Club Music - DVD/CD label started by Gary and Carol Vincent (Vincent Productions) to record special events at Ground Zero Blues Club (above). Production facilities and recording studio for label are house in old Coahoma Opportunities building on Issaquena in downtown Clarksdale. Hambone Festival - Started in October 2007 by musician/artist Stan Street (see below). Next fest: 10/25/08. Hambone Gallery - Art gallery owned and operated by Stan and Dixie Street -- a couple wonderful Clarksdale transplants from Florida. Stan is an excellent painter (mostly blues subjects in folk art style -- Cat Head carries his work, too!) and blues/roots musician. 111 East Second. Henry "Son" Sims grave site - Buried in unmarked grave at Bell(e) Grove Cemetary. (Slated for eventual headstone courtesy Mr. Zion Fund.) "Here's Clarkdale" magazine - FREE monthly print (and on-line) publication... "The monthly magazine of Clarksdale Culture." It provides both past and present histories of the people and places that make Clarksdale, Mississippi so special. Click on the link to enjoy from afar, or pick up a free copy at Cat Head when you're in town. Hick's BBQ - Great food, including wonderful BBQ and Delta-style hot tamales. Drive through window for lunch and dinner to go. Across from the Econolodge on State St. (Hwy. 161 in town). Hopson Plantation/Commissary/THE LOFT - Rustic old plantation commissary w/occasional music events, including the annual "Pinetop Perkins Homecoming" each October. ALSO, new in 2007... THE LOFT at Hopson new overnight accommodations that are very cool. See it for yourself in a slide show on their www.hopsonplantation.com web site or call 662-902-3866 to book it for a night, a week or whatever. 8141 Old Hwy. 49, 624-5756 (Hopson Commissary/Loft only). Ike Turner's home - Where the Father of Rock 'n Roll grew up. 304 Washington St. Isle of Capri Entertainment Resort in Lula, MS. - "Visit our tropical paradise with three great restaurants, two hotels, a great showroom meeting rooms and two great casinos with 24 hour live action. Call 1-800-789-5825 for more information." (BIG supporter of Juke Joint Festival and Sunflower River Blues Festival!) Jacqueline's Blues Bar - Club named after local, female blues-rock guitar prodigy Jacqueline Gooch. Currently for sale. 990 MLK Dr. (4th St.). Jimbo Mathus' Delta Recording Studio and KnockDown South Records - Studio run by former Squirrel Nut Zippers founder and current Knockdown Society leader (also on the last two Buddy Guy CDs) James "Jimbo" Mathus. Jimbo is from Corinth, Mississippi originally and has family here. The studio opened in August 2003, and he recorded folks like Big George Brock & the Houserockers, Elvis Costello, Sam Carr, Floyd Lee, Cedric Burnside, K.M. Williams, Mr. Tater, etc. Located on 200 block of Yazoo, downtown. Call (662) 624-6189 or email info@jamesmathus.com -- MOVED TO COMO, MISSISSIPPI... SEPT. 1, 2006. Juke Joint Fesival & Related Events - Awesome, low-cost annual event to be held Fri.-Sun., April 18-20 in 2008 (Fest on Sat. w/related events that Fri. & Sun.) that combines a real-deal blues festival with a traditional small town fair. Fun, family events like pig races, a petting zoo and history bus tours of Clarksdale ... plus great "live" real-deal blues music, tasty Delta food and good ole Southern hospitality during the day. Authentic "lock up your daughters" Delta blues played in old time juke joints at night. For the nighttime portion, we book local/regional acts into 11 great blues clubs/jukes w/13 acts! Then, we rent a couple buses and drivers to take you around to them and back to your hotel... All for just the price of a $10 wristband. Pretty sweet. Book your rooms early for this one. Details and photos from last year on the web site. (662) 624-5992 or (662) 624-4006 for info. ALSO, there will be plenty "live" blues in the clubs, etc. on that Friday night and another free CAT HEAD'S MINI BLUES FEST out front of Cat Head on that Sunday (April 20, 2008). (The) Junction R&B Club - Very nice juke joint. Currently closed. Too bad. Cool place and super owner. It's 10 minutes North of Clarksdale, MS (Located on Hwy. 61N, just 15 mins. North of C'dale's 61/49 "crossroads" sculpture. It's a nice metal building with a large parking lot. Look for the unrelated double billboard beside it.) Kathryn's on Moon Lake - So, o.k. it's not exactly IN Clarksdale, but it is nearby at Moon Lake -- a scenic and historic location. Steaks and seafood are the specialties of the house. 5770 Moon Lake Rd. 662-337-2962. (The) Lofts At The Five & Dime - Available soon... Nearly 1,000 sq. ft. condominums located conveniently downtown in Clarksdale -- above the old Woolworth's building. 1 bedroom, 1 1/2 bathroom. Four units total. Dutch Oven restaurant is slated to move downstairs in '08. (Other retail space below also available.) Yazoo Ave & E. 2nd St. Call Bubba O'Keefe at 662-645-8874 for more info about this unique opportunity -- and tell him Cat Head sent ya. Mac's Lounge - Robert Mugge's 1991 blues documentary "Deep Blues" featured Big Jack Johnson performing here when it was called the Pastime Lounge. Mac's does NOT feature "live" blues, however. 426 Desoto Ave. Madidi - The fine restaurant co-owned by actor Morgan Freeman and attorney Bill Luckett. High end but very nice. Great food. Upscale atmosphere. Reservations recommended. Wednesday nights are "Martini Night" with a special price on two drinks and an appetizer. Mr. Freeman eats there regularly. 164 Delta Ave. (662) 627-7770. Margaret's Blue Diamond - Once a favorite juke of the locals but closed by an ice storm in the 1990s, the building has recently reopened as CW's but with no sign out front. There's rarely "live" blues any more (except on the occasional Sunday night) but some on the juke box. The video "Juke Joint Saturday Night" was filmed here. By the railroad tracks, one block over from Turner's Grill. Miss Del's General Store - They may look a touch old fashioned, but they feature the best of everything... from feed, seed and garden products to jewelry, bath products, gifts, gourmet foods, antiques, fine chocolates and pecans. (Plus, lattes and cappuccinos!) Shop Mon.-Sat. or on-line 24/7. 662-624-2381. 145 Delta Avenue in historic downtown Clarksdale. Messenger's - Perhaps the oldest, continously running business in Clarksdale, Messengers is a tight ship run by Mr. George Messenger. It's part pool hall and domino den... and part café and juke joint. Drop in for a beer and a sandwich and watch for occasional blues shows. 2005 was a big year for the venue. It was featured in an award-winning documentary, a feature article in the Clarion-Ledger and one of the hottest spots in town during the Juke Joint Festival (when Jimbo Mathus and the boys tore up the place!). On MLK Drive (4th St.) between Sunflower and Yazoo. Muddy's Mound - Former site of Muddy Water's famous cabin on Stovall Plantation. A marker on the site tells the story and includes this quote from Eric Clapton, "Muddy Waters' music changed my life, and whether you know it or not, and like it or not, it probably changed yours, too." ALSO, there is now a State Blues Trail Marker at the Mound. The cotton fields still thrive behind the site. Quapaw Canoe Company - Join artist/musician/adventurer John "Riverman" Ruskey on a canoe trip on the mighty Mississippi! Simply amazing. As short or long as you care to make the trip. Affordable and memorable. 291 Sunflower Avenue, 662.627.4070. john@island63.com Ramon's Restaurant - A hidden little gem (a couple blocks from where the Cat Head's live). Simple but excellent fare in an atmosphere straight out of the 1970s. Fried seafood, chicken livers, crawfish in season. Look for a mention in Gourmet magazine (late summer 2005). 535 Oakhurst St. (662) 624-9230. Ranchero Restaurant - A popular family institution here in town. Folks call it "The Ranch." The menu includes BBQ, fried seafood and salad bar. 1907 State St. (662) 624-9768 Red's Lounge - Excellent local juke joint. Sure it looks closed and/or scary, but it is actually just a big ole wonderful house party. Open some weekday nights and all weekends with "live" blues some weekends. Special events during festival time. If you come to Clarksdale, you simply MUST visit Big Red at his killer juke! Regulars include T-Model Ford, Robert Belfour, Big T, Lightnin' Malcolm, Wesley Jefferson and Big Jack Johnson. 395 Sunflower Ave. (Corner of MLK Dr./4th St. and Sunflower.) Contact Cat Head for more info. Rest Haven - A Lebanese-owned Clarksdale institution, the Rest Haven is kind of like dinner that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The difference is that you are offered a mix of Lebanese, Italian and downhome Delta items on the menu. Nice folks. 419 State St. (662) 624-8601 Riverside Hotel - Site of African-American hospital where Bessie Smith died in 1937. Ike Turner, Robert Nighthawk, Sonny Boy II, Pop Staples, John Lee Hooker and John F. Kennedy, Jr. all stayed or lived here after it became a hotel/boardinghouse. (There used to be a late-night club called "The Subway" in the basement, too!) Founded on Oct. 11, 1944 and currently run by the always accommodating Frank "Rat" Ratliff. Rat's been spending a lot of time renovating some adjacent structures, lately... So look for more accommodations to be available soon. 615 Sunflower Ave., (662) 624-9163. ALSO, there is now a State Blues Trail Marker at the Riverside. (Theo's) Rock 'N Roll & Blues Heritage Museum - Theo and his wife moved here from the Netherlands (via Memphis), and they've opened a very cool museum full of rare rock and blues memorabilia. A must-see on 2nd Street downtown. Open most Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays plus during festivals and by appointment. 113 E. Second St. 901-605-8662. Sam Cooke's home - Soul music's legendary Sam Cooke was born in Clarksdale in 1931. Corner of 7th St. and Illinois Ave. Sarah's Kitchen - Cool juke run by a nice lady. (Miss Sarah used to cook for the jail by the way.) Great soul food and Southern cooking for lunch Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Occasional "live" blues on Thursdays and during festival weekends. Moved last year to 278 Sunflower Ave., downtown. Shack-up Inn/Cotton Gin Inn - Rustic former plantation with half a dozen sharecropper shacks... plus an old Cotton Gin full of rooms... an area for basic tent/self-contained RV camping... soon-to-be music venue, etc. Updated with A.C., heat, showers, microwaves, etc. A favorite of regular folks, musicians and movie stars alike! Make reservations on line or call. Off of Old Hwy. 49, 662-624-8329 (Shackup/Cotton Gin Inn). Smitty's Red Top Lounge - Photos of this legendary juke were featured on both a Jelly Roll King's LP and a Super Chikan CD since both used to play here. Closed but for sale. Move to C'dale and open a cool juke joint. 377 Yazoo Ave. Stackhouse Record Mart/Rooster Blues - CLOSED... and recently sold. Former record store and site of the Rooster Blues recording studio back in the 1990s. (It's the old Cream Boat building.) 232 Sunflower Ave. Studio 61 Recording Studio - Same building as Bluestown. Quick and affordable. Computerized. House musicians available. 317 Delta Ave., 662.627.7778. info@studio61.com Sunflower River Blues & Gospel Festival - FREE annual event that will celebrate 21 years in 2008. Includes all of our great local blues and gospel bands plus some Mississippi-connected headliners on 5 stages: main, acoustic 1, acoustic 2, gospel and educational. See web site for details. As a bonus, all of the area clubs and juke joints run that weekend, and Cat Head holds a big, free CAT HEAD'S MINI BLUES FEST all day on that Sunday with tents, chairs and half a dozen acts out front of the store. Super Chikan's Place at the Bluesberry Cafe - Florida-transplants Art and Carol offer tasty baked goods, lunch and occasional blues or rock music on weekends -- including occasional performance by James "Super Chikan" Johnson. Call for more info. 235 Yazoo Ave. (662) 627-7008. (Mississippi Delta) Tennessee Williams Festival - Annual event that celebrates Clarksdale's literary history with seminars, porch plays and more. Each October. Contact the Chamber of Commerce below for info. Tourism Commission/Chamber of Commerce - Drop by the Tourism/Chamber offices for information on Clarksdale. 1540 Desoto Ave. (which is also Hwy. 49). www.clarksdaletourism.com (662) 627-7337. Uncle Henry's Place & Inn - So, o.k. it's not exactly IN Clarksdale, but it is nearby at Moon Lake (and I really dig the place). Creole chef George Wright cooks up spicy miracles in the kitchen from Wednesday to Sunday night. It's also a basic B&B... with a real history as a casino, etc. where guys like Tennessee Williams hung out. 5860 Moon Lake Rd. (662) 337-2757. Vincent Productions - See "Ground Zero Blues Club Music" above. Wade Walton's Barbershop - Clarksdale's famous blues barber not only cut the hair of Ike Turner, Sonny Boy Williamson II and others, he also recorded blues for both local and international labels. His small white building at 317 Issaquena Ave. is still decorated with his name. (Note: His original shop was at 304 4th Street.) Wade Walton's gravesite - McLaurin Gardens cemetary, Lyon, MS, just north of Clarksdale on hwy. 61. Nice headstone. W.C. Handy home marker - The so-called "Father of the Blues" lived here in the early 1900s when he first heard the blues in nearby Tutwiler. On Issaquena, near Wade Walton's barbershop. Whiskey Blues - Recent addition to Clarksdale on Sunflower Avenue, downtown. Retail store features blues souvenirs, leather goods, toy train accessories and more. 214 Sunflower Avenue. Open daily. W.R.O.X. - WROX 1450AM... back on the air but not broadcast locally. It's a syndicated blues/southern soul feed with locally inserted commercials. Plans are in the works to broadcast some shows (ie. drive time and Cat Head Delta Blues Hour) again locally in the future. W.R.O.X. museum (a.k.a. Clarkdale History & Cultural Museum)- This was the site of the W.R.O.X. blues radio station from around 1946 to 1953, according to the building's current owner, Bubba O'Keefe. Early Wright, Ike Turner and Robert Nighthawk all had shows here, plus Elvis, Sam Cooke and Sonny Boy Williamson II were all on the air there at some point in time. Open festival weekends or by appointment. 257 Delta Ave. Admission is $5/per year for adults. Children 13 & under free. Special group/tour rates. Contact Bubba O’Keefe 662 645 8874. AREA
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(especially useful during blues fest time periods!) Tunica,
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